48 Hours in Seville - The Pearl of Andalusia
Nicknamed the Frying Pan of Europe due to its soaring temperatures, Seville is the perfect year-round city break destination. The sun-soaked capital of Andalusia is the birth place of flamenco and is famed for its orange tree-lined streets and incredible mix of architecture. 48 hours in this vibrant city is not long enough, with so much to see and do we struggled to pack it all in so, here is your essential guide.
What’s the story, where is Seville?
Seville is the picturesque capital of Andalusia. Located in the south of Spain and known for its rich history, stunning architecture and vibrant culture, Seville is a must for any traveller exploring the Andalusian region. The city is characterised by narrow streets and alleys lined with colourful buildings, lively plazas filled with locals sipping on coffee or wine, and an array of must-see attractions, including the grand Cathedral and the Real Alcazar, both of which impress visitors with their ornate, intricate details and stunning architecture. Whether you are wandering the streets of Barrio Santa Cruz, admiring the stunning landscapes of Parque de Maria Luisa, or delving into the city's captivating history at the Archaeological Museum, Seville will leave you yearning for more. Rich in culture, hospitality, and unforgettable experiences, Seville is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities in Spain, and a destination you will never forget.
Where should I stay?
Being a hot-spot for international travellers, Seville is geared up for tourists so there is no shortage of accommodation from small family run budget hotels to 5 star luxury and everything in-between.
The most popular base for tourists is Santa Cruz, the historic heart of Seville. Its narrow, winding streets are lined with charming old buildings, colourful flowers, and quaint plazas and it is home to many of Seville's top attractions, such as the Real Alcazar and the Cathedral, as well as lively bars and restaurants. Staying in Santa Cruz puts you right in the heart of Seville's bustling tourist scene.
If you prefer to be away from the crowds and have a more authentic experience, head across the Guadalquivir River to the traditional neighbourhood of Triana. Staying in Triana will give you a taste of real Seville, with its lively markets, flamenco clubs, and beautiful ceramic shops. The neighbourhood is also home to some of the city's best food, with plenty of tapas bars and seafood restaurants.
We opted for a traditionally styled apartment in a stunning Andalusian house in the heart of San Julián complete with outdoor swimming pool and roof top terrace (perfect for sundowners.) This vibrant neighbourhood within the historic centre of the city is buzzing with locals, yet is only a 10 minute walk to the main attractions. In front of the apartment is one of the hidden gems of Seville, the stunning Baroque Santa Paula Convent. We loved strolling to the bakery in the plaza at the top of the street in the morning for freshly baked breakfast supplies and stopping for a night-cap in one of the local bodegos.
Traditional digs in the lively San Julián district
Seville Top 5
I could write a post as long as your arm on what to see and do in Seville so I’ve whittled it down and chosen our five favourite expierences….it was a tough call.
1. Real Alcazar
Real Alcazar showcases a unique blend of Mudéjar, Gothic, and Renaissance architectural styles, which have been preserved over time. In addition to the stunning architecture, the palace is adorned with beautiful gardens that feature plants from all over the world and where you’ll find dozens of peacocks strolling around. This 14th century palace is undoubtedly Seville’s most iconic and breathtaking landmark.
2. Andalusia Contemporary Art Centre
The Andalusia Contemporary Art Centre is a must-see for art lovers visiting the city. Located in the historic district of La Cartuja, the museum showcases an impressive selection of contemporary art collections from both Andalusian and international artists. The building itself is a work of art, featuring a blend of traditional Andalusian and modern architectural styles. With changing exhibitions and a vibrant cultural program, the Art Centre aims to promote and highlight the artistic talents of the region. Whether you appreciate contemporary art or simply want to immerse yourself in Seville's culture, the Andalusia Contemporary Art Centre is definitely worth a visit.
3. Collector's Market
Every Sunday the beautiful Plaza del Cabildo fills up with stalls selling vintage and collector’s items. Despite its central location, few tourists know about this off-the-beaten path location as it is practically hidden in plain sight.
4. AIRE baths
Looking for a luxurious and relaxing experience in Seville, look no further than AIRE Baths. This tranquil oasis in the city with various baths and steam rooms is the perfect place to unwind - we booked a treatment for the last afternoon of our trip and it left us feeling rejuvenated. This beautiful spa features Moorish and Roman-inspired design elements, transporting you to a different era making it the ultimate escape.
5. Flamenco
Seville is the birthplace of Flamenco, but here it is more than just a dance, it is a way of life, and the city celebrates it with a fervour that is unmatched anywhere else in Spain. From ornate theatres to tiny tapas bars, the sound of Flamenco is never far away. Catch dancers and musicians perform in parks, under the arches of Plaza de España and in the theatres of soulful, Triana. We watched a powerful performance at Baraka sala Flamenca and once experienced, it is unmistakable that Flamenco is an essential part of the Sevillian soul.
Where to eat….and what is Vino de Naranja?
With its long history, unique location, and multicultural influences, Seville has a lot to offer when it comes to food. From tapas to seafood, there is no shortage of great places to eat, drink and relax, but here’s a round-up of our favourites.
La Barra de Cañabota This Michelin star tapas restaurant feels more like a luxurious fishmonger than a typical fine-dining space. With a long bar and a few tall tables at the front and a curious “sala de despiece” dining area at the back, this paired back restaurant is unfussy allowing the day’s supply of fresh fish and seafood on display to take centre stage.
Mercado de Triana On the west bank of the River, this historical market in Triana is filled with local produce and fresh off-the-boat seafood making it the perfect place for foodies to get a taste of Andalusian food culture. Enjoy this unique experience by strolling through the market, tasting local delicacies and interacting with the passionate vendors who bring the market to life. If you want to experience the true essence of Seville, Mercado de Triana is worth a visit.
Casa Plácido This typical Sevillian tavern in Santa Cruz is great for tapas and the perfect place to sample sweet vermouths. With a checker board floor and Iberian hams hanging from the ceiling this place hails from a bygone era. The interior is lined in the region’s famous Azulejo tiles and vintage posters of dancers and mandators, making this a cosy spot for a few plates of croquetas and calamari.
Thank you Mother For an exciting plant based menu, head to Thank you Mother. This fun café fuses international cuisine inspired by the owner’s travels to create a menu full of healthy dishes made with organic ingredients.
Mana de Santo It feels slightly sacrilegious to recommend another country’s cuisine when talking about Spain, but Mana de Santo is such a fun spot. This little chain of Mexican taquerías has a wonderful mezcal and tequila based cocktail list and serves up delicious tacos and quesadillas.
Ringo Banana This healthy daytime spot focuses on organic produce and fair trade coffee. The owner, a Venezuelan nutritionist, opened Ringo Banana with the concept of slow-food in mind. Everything is made on site and all ingredients are locally and ethically sourced. For a treat, sit outside, in the shade of the Church of Santa Catalina and indulge in a banana roll, a crêpe roll filled with peanut butter and banana, blueberries, strawberries, toasted peanuts and melted dark chocolate.
Bar Santa Ana A city renowned for its oranges must have a drink made in its honour. Vino de Naranja (orange wine) is unique to the region of Huelva and is the perfect aperitif, served chilled or alongside some Spanish cheeses. On our search for vino de naranja, we stumbled upon Bar Santa Ana, a tiny neighbourhood bar in Triana where religious icons and bullfighters adorn the walls. This little joint has three tables and beautiful tiled counter. The bartender chalks the price of your order on the countertop and they serve sweet sweet orange wine. Stand at the bar with locals and soak up the atmosphere accompanied by a glass, or two, of vino de naranja.
When is the best time to visit?
The short answer, anytime. Seville can be explored all year round, but temperatures in the summer months soar to over 35ºC! We visited in December and the weather was perfect for a city break, mild and around 18ºC. The blue bird sky was a welcomed break from the Irish winter plus the city had a lovely atmosphere with the smell of roasted chestnuts in the air, Christmas markets dotted around and streets decked in beautiful lights and decorations.
