Tonnara di Scopello-Sicilian Seduction
The sun drenched island of Sicily seduces visitors with her natural beauty and rich food culture. From ancient ruins and stunning beaches to hilltop villages, it is no wonder that this Italian island is a favourite destination for travellers from all over the world. We discovered somewhere particularly intoxicating during our recent trip, a time-machine of sorts, transporting guests to a bygone era.
What’s the story, what and where is Tonnara di Scopello?
Tonnara di Scopello is a restored ancient fishing village on the north-western coast of Sicily. The village was first established in the 16th century and has long seafaring history. The beauty of this place is breathtaking with crystal-clear waters and a rugged landscape of sea stacks and old towers. Nowadays, the nearby hilltop town has been transformed into a cultural hub and the region has become famous for its traditional Sicilian cuisine.
The main attraction however, is a peaceful cove where a Medieval tuna factory turned boutique hotel sits side by side with the Faraglioni di Scopello. Surrounded by the sea La Tonnara di Scopello is a place from my dreams or a Fellini film. Waking up to stillness, the sun rising directly in front of our window, having breakfast on the shore and spending mornings swimming in the Mediterranean. I felt like I had been transported to 1950s Italy expecting to see Marcello Mastroianni or Claudia Cardinale swim into shot or a tanned Dickie Greenleaf bathing by the sea on a striped lounger.
Perched on the edge of the sea, there is no shortage of swimming spots at the hotel; from the tiny private beach accessed via a cellar and surrounded by sea stacks to the shore side where deck chairs are put out every morning for the visiting bathers. Non-hotel residents are permitted to visit La Tonnara and the bathing area between 10am - 7pm. Before 10am, the cove takes its time waking up, hotel residents drink coffee on their balconies whilst others read at open bedroom windows as the smell of croissants and cannoli from the on-site bakery fills the air and the sea gently laps the shore.
They say, it takes a village and in La Tonnara’s case it couldn’t be truer. From the Taverne, were the Bagliera (the female guardian of the village) lived and where bread for the fishermen was baked daily, to the Vicarie, that housed the fishermen, every part of this old seaside village has been converted into an apartment. We stayed on the top floor of the main building, the impressive dusty pink Dimora Palazzina Floria. We spent several nights in Apartment Igiea, a stunning art nouveau corner suite that faced both the sea and the village from its four balconies . With beautiful tiled floors, high ceilings and vintage kitchen, the passage of time is paused within the walls of this stunning apartment.
The terrace is the perfect spot for an afternoon Aperitif
Where should I eat nearby?
Sicily is renowned for its cuisine, with fresh seafood, olives, lemons, and almonds being some of the ingredients used in making the region's famous dishes and the food in this region did not disappoint.
La Tonnara doesn’t have an onsite restaurant, but each apartment has a kitchen and there is a nearby supermarket and organic farm shop for groceries. There is a lovely little bakery on the ground floor of the main building of the hotel and residents can pop in during the morning for freshly baked bread and cannoli as well as great coffee. The bakery stays open during the day serving light lunch dishes, beer and cocktails.
We discovered several great places nearby for lunch and dinner. The organic farm shop, Solea Azienda Agricola doubles up as farm to table restaurant amongst a beautiful garden of vines, vegetables and wild flowers. For a relaxed evening with great seafood and sunset cocktails (the views from the terraces are incredible) head to La Cialoma or for more of an occasion, dress up slightly and have night under the stars dining al fresco at Agriturismo Tenute Plaia.
Eat amongst nature at Solea Azienda Agricola
Can I hike in the area?
Only a few minutes from La Tonnara you will find a gorgeous protected coastal area that is perfect for a day spent hiking, picnicking and swimming. Zingaro Nature Reserve has an accessible hiking route along a dusty 7km (each way) trail that hugs the coast. Pack a picnic of local cheeses and fruit from Solea Azienda Agricola, the nearby organic farm shop and hit the trail, breaking off the route now and again to discover the beautiful beaches and coves tucked away on this rugged coastline.
How to get there?
We flew directly to Palermo Airport with Ryanair. Flying direct to Sicily can be very expensive so taking an indirect route can prove to be more affordable. Whilst we flew directly to Palermo Airport from Dublin, we found it less expensive to take a indirect flight via Zurich home.
We hired a car from Centauro and they run a handy shuttle bus service from the airport to the carpark and drop you back on your return. Whilst having a car would make your trip easier, I don’t think it is essential if you are only staying at La Tonnara as there appears to be buses that run the route from Palermo and go as far as the Zingaro Nature Reserve. As we were on a island wide road trip a car was essential for us, but when we were staying at La Tonnara we used it very little as even walking to the nearby restaurants along quite roads under a blanket of stars was really enjoyable.
